KristyTomohon sits at the edge of North Sulawesi’s Minahasan highlands. Less than an hour from Manado, it’s often called “the city of flowers,” a name it earns in full. Yet a quick YouTube search turns up one theme: the city’s notorious traditional market.
But Tomohon offers much more than that. It’s one of my favorite regions in Sulawesi, with approachable volcanoes, dramatic waterfalls, a deep-rooted coffee culture, a whimsical forest brewery, and one of the most striking geothermal landmarks we’ve come across.
How to Get There
Two main roads run between Manado and Gorontalo—the north road and the south road. Follow the south road to Tomohon; it’s a scenic ride on a gently winding route with sweeping views of the Minahasan highlands. You’ll know you’ve reached Tomohon when flowers and woven-basket stalls line the roadside and a big “Tomohon” sign comes into view. We recommend renting a scooter from Vallery Scooter Rental in Manado—ours cost under 5 USD per day.
Where to Stay in Tomohon
Our top pick for Tomohon is Talaga Homestay. Using Booking.com, we paid 14 USD per night for a private room with a shared washroom in a traditional Minahasan wooden house. The views are incredible. On a clear day, Mount Lokon fills the porch frame above gardens, ponds, and palm trees.
Overall, it was a great stay. But we must warn you to skip the host’s “welcome drink.” He poured us a clear spirit without saying what was in it, and only after we tasted it did he explain that it was infused with a seahorse and a crocodile penis. We laughed it off at the time, but it was pretty unsettling. Looking back, it was a fitting introduction to Minahasa, as you’ll soon see.
Tomohon “Extreme” Market
The first thing we did in Tomohon was visit the so-called “extreme” traditional market. If you have researched Tomohon at all, you probably know why it is notorious. Vendors here sell scorched bats, pythons, rats, pigs, and other wildlife. Dog and cat meat were officially banned in 2023, and most Minahasans now oppose the trade, so we did not expect to see it. Unfortunately, that was not the case. We did not see cats, but we did see dogs. As we left, a woman sat with a basket of live puppies. When we asked if they were for eating, she said yes.
To understand why this persists, it helps to know the cultural background. For generations, Minahasan communities served rare or wild meats during major ceremonies, and these dishes carried social and symbolic significance long before today’s views on animal welfare. Most locals have since abandoned the practice, yet a small number of vendors continue it, which is why visitors may still encounter scenes that do not reflect the values of the wider community.
Personally, I do not recommend visiting Tomohon’s traditional market. Beyond the sale of exotic meats, it feels like any other market, and I now see how tourist curiosity can send the wrong message and encourage vendors to keep offering what they believe visitors come to see.
When we returned to our homestay, I decided to contact authorities about the puppies. I rarely intervene in local customs, but in this case lives were at stake and the practice was already illegal. If you visit and see dogs or cats for sale, I encourage you to report it as well.
What Else to See
- Bukit Kasih: Bukit Kasih blends geothermal activity, thick steam, and hillside shrines with two massive stone faces that give the whole area an uncanny atmosphere. It stands out as one of the most memorable places we’ve visited in Sulawesi. From Tomohon it is about an hour away, and we paired it with an afternoon around the picturesque Lake Tondano.
- Bukit Doa Mahawu: Bukit Doa Mahawu is a Catholic retreat with a Stations of the Cross route that winds through lush jungle. The walk holds its own against the canopy trails we visited in Malaysian Borneo in terms of sheer beauty, yet here we had the entire path to ourselves. The setting is quiet and green, with a wide open view of Mount Lokon, and the small entrance fee includes a coffee.
- Mount Mahawu: Tomohon’s landscape is defined by two volcanoes, Lokon on the west side and Mahawu on the east. A short stairway through jungle and bright pink flowers leads to Mahawu’s rim, where the air turns sulfurous and the crater suddenly opens below you. At the top, an observation deck overlooks the steaming crater, and narrow, overgrown paths on both sides offer different angles of the inner walls and the small green pool inside. Mahawu is one of the most approachable volcanoes in Indonesia. We visited on a rainy day and were greeted by a wall of mist, but after waiting a few minutes the clouds lifted and revealed the entire crater right beneath our feet. Expect a small ticket fee to enter.
- Pagoda Ekayana: Pagoda Ekayana offers wide views of Tomohon from the upper floors of its towering pagoda. A highlight is the turtle shrine, complete with live turtles, reflecting Buddhist ideas of longevity and protection and unlike anything else we saw in the region. The small entrance fee is worth it, as this was the most distinctive temple we visited in North Sulawesi.
- Tuur Ma’asering: Set in a grove of aren palms, Tuur Ma’asering is a rustic outdoor brewery famous for its saguer and cap tikus. As the lights switch on at dusk, the whole space glows and fills with an easy, communal energy. It is the kind of place where you could linger for hours, drink in hand, trading stories with locals.
- Elmont’s coffee: This family-owned café sits near Tomohon’s city center and doubles as a roastery with its own small plantation behind the shop. We spent a rainy morning here, and as we were leaving the owner invited us to walk through the plantation, where we saw their arabica and robusta plants and learned about their cultivation process. Tomohon is known for its arabica grown on volcanic soil, so if you enjoy coffee, this is one of the best places to see it at the source.
- Aer Konde Ratahan: About 45 minutes from Tomohon, a short forest hike leads to Aer Konde Ratahan, a surprisingly crystal-clear jungle swimming hole. Google Maps took us to a dead-end in a tiny neighborhood, but a local kindly guided us to the correct trailhead. Though the trash nearby was disappointing, the spring itself exceeded our expectations. This is a worthwhile stop if you’re overlanding toward Gorontalo.
- Ranolewo hot spring: Ranolewo Hot Spring sits just outside Tomohon and features a few rustic pools fed by warm geothermal water, surrounded by gardens and village scenery. We didn’t make it there, but a French family at our homestay went and had rave reviews.
- Tumbak village: Tumbak is a low-key coastal community famous for its shallow coral reefs, mangroves, and a traditional stilt-house homestay right above the water. We didn’t visit this one either, but the French family spoke highly of it. A day in Tumbak village could be a nice stop when overlanding to Gorontalo.
Where to Eat
For classic Indonesian dishes like fried chicken and rice (nasi goreng ayam), we enjoyed Kanzo Resto & Cafe, with its relaxed indoor–outdoor seating. Their kopi susu became my second favorite in Sulawesi after Rumah Kopi Tikala in Manado. Head to Izakaya Kampai for Japanese barbecue. And if you like matcha or just want a serene place with an incredible view, be sure to visit the restaurant at Gardenia Country Inn.
Getting Out and Where to Go Next
From Tomohon, I recommend taking the southern route to Gorontalo. Along the way you can stop for a day or two in Tumbak village and spend an hour or two at Aer Konde Ratahan. I wasn’t able to find any direct public buses from Tomohon to Gorontalo; most travelers go back to Manado first and catch the Gorontalo bus from the Malalayang terminal—which is ultimately what we did.
