KristyAbout 4.5 hours by speedboat off the northern coast of Sulawesi lies the small island of Siau. This lesser-visited island shelters a vivid cast of elusive, endemic wildlife and some of the warmest, most welcoming people I’ve met anywhere. It’s also the site of one of Indonesia’s most active and awe-striking volcanoes, the grumbling stratovolcano Mount Karangatang, visible from nearly every corner of the island.
Siau belongs to the Sitaro Island Regency, a remote archipelago tucked roughly midway between the northern tip of Sulawesi and Mindanao in the Sulu Sea. The regency also includes Tagulangdang, Biaro, Ruang, and several smaller islands you can explore by local ferry. From Siau, you can even take day trips to uninhabited islets like Mahoro, where you’ll find pristine, glass-clear waters perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
Siau is one of Indonesia’s best kept treasures. I’m torn between keeping it that way and wanting more people to discover this gem and support the locals who make it unforgettable!
Getting to Siau Island
There are two ways to reach Siau Island: an overnight slow boat or a speedboat that gets you there in under five hours. You can buy tickets in Manado at the ferry port (“Pelabuhan Manado” on Google Maps). Near the ATMs, there’s an easy-to-miss kiosk with the schedule for the KM Express Bahari—that’s the speedboat you want. Tickets are about 15 USD per person, and the ride feels safe and comfortable. Go early, because the kiosk closes at 9 AM. The boat departs on Mon/Wed/Fri at 9:30 AM.
On the way to Siau, the ferry makes a stop at Ruang Island, giving you a close-up look at Mount Ruang, which last erupted in April 2024. The next island is Siau, and it’s impossible to miss with Mount Karangatan towering almost 2000 meters above sea level.
Where to Stay on Siau
We stayed at Karatu Homestay and couldn’t have asked for a better base. It’s run by a kind couple, Ronnal and Anita, who offer private rooms with private washrooms, aircon, and breakfast for 275,000 IDR (about 16 USD) per night. The rooms are basic but clean and comfortable, and Anita’s breakfast will keep you full for most of the day. You can also rent a solid scooter from Ronnal and Anita for around 4 USD per day. To get in touch with them, just message Ronnal using the WhatsApp number listed on Karatu Homestay’s Google page.
Do You Need a Guide?
You don’t need a guide to explore Siau—scooters and Google Maps work fine—but hiring the island’s one and only guide, Dominik, made our trip. For 25 USD per person per day (boat included), we got access to secret spots, local knowledge, and two full days with a charismatic guide who’s active in the community and passionate about wildlife conservation. If you’re lucky, you’ll also witness his legendary karaoke skills. You can reach Dominik on WhatsApp at +62 853-9866-6999.
What to Explore
You could easily spend a minimum of three days on Siau, and it also would be a really nice place to stay for an extended time relaxing, enjoying the slow island life, and getting to know the locals. On Siau you can:
- Observe Mount Karangetang: Dominik guided us to hidden viewpoints on unmarked trails, including a sunrise spot where Karangetang glowed behind us as the sun rose over the sea, and a small street viewpoint where we watched lava erupt from the twin peak. He also showed us the volcano’s observation center, where you can examine the monitoring equipment and learn how experts plan evacuation routes.
- Snorkel the archipelago: We hired a small wooden boat to explore the tiny islands of Mahoro and Masare, where we swam in stunningly clear, warm water above vibrant, healthy coral. On Masare, we watched rare, endemic Maleo birds nesting in volcanic sand. Dominik also found the perfect calm spot to teach my husband to swim and let us linger as long as we wanted—which was ideal, because we didn’t want to leave.
- Spot tarsiers: The Siau tarsier is a critically endangered, tiny primate known for its enormous eyes and tree-frog-like feet, found only on Siau in a few hard-to-locate forest pockets. They’re nocturnal and begin their distinctive whistling call around 5:00 p.m., when they wake up to feed. With Dominik guiding us, we followed the calls into the forest and tracked them through the trees, spotting five or six tarsiers hopping between branches.
- Sample nutmeg wine: Nutmeg is a major crop on Siau, and you’ll see fresh nutmeg drying in front of nearly every home. Locals use it in ways you won’t find anywhere else—nutmeg wine, jam, sweets, even juice. Dominik brought us to a family that has been brewing nutmeg wine for years, and we were able to sample it. It was incredibly strong, almost medicinal. We ended up buying some nutmeg jam to bring back to Pakistan—we were genuinely impressed.
- Swim at Temboko Lehi hot spring beach: For our last sunset on Siau, Dominik took us to a tiny hot spring cove perfectly positioned to watch the sun drop into the sea. We were told to enter only on the left side—the right side was dangerously hot, with water visibly bubbling. Even the “safe” side was almost too hot to stay in, but the experience was unforgettable, and it’s easy to see why locals come for the spring’s healing properties.
Where to Eat
Siau has just one restaurant, Beach Coffee, a five-minute walk from Karatu Homestay. It serves excellent seafood, local dishes, and a wide range of drinks. My favorite treat was the warm fried jackfruit glazed in palm syrup, and we ended every evening here. It is also where Dominik sings karaoke, which was always fun to watch.
Breakfast at Karatu Homestay was another highlight. Anita prepared hearty traditional dishes each morning, and on our last day she sent us off with her homemade nutmeg juice. It was strong and fresh, and we savored every sip knowing we would not find it anywhere else.
Getting Out and Where to Go Next
The speedboat KM Express Bahari departs Siau for Manado on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. This allowed us to arrive on Wednesday, spend two full days exploring Siau, and leave for Manado on Saturday early afternoon. Dominik kindly arranged our ferry tickets back, and Ronnal dropped us off at the port.
From Siau, you can also take an overnight ferry to Sangihe, a larger island even further north with a very different landscape and culture. Sangihe is even less explored than Siau, but regular boats run from there to Manado, making it a great option for travelers with extra time.
