KristyOver dinner at our homestay in Gorontalo, our host mentioned that the province is considered one of the more conservative regions in Indonesia, second only to Aceh. I’d read this before arriving, but it didn’t immediately align with what we experienced. People were friendly and welcoming, and on hot afternoons I even felt comfortable wearing shorts.
That ease, however, can be misleading. While our own experience was entirely positive, Gorontalo’s conservative norms aren’t always visible on the surface, and travelers may not always recognize when they’re crossing an unspoken line. As we learned more about the region, we became more mindful of how we dressed and presented ourselves in public.
In this guide, I’ll share where to stay in Gorontalo, how to reach the Togian and Banggai Islands from there, and a few practical notes to help travelers move through the province with awareness and respect.
Getting to Gorontalo
Getting to Gorontalo is pretty straightforward. In Manado, head to Malalayang Terminal at least a day before you want to leave. You’ll likely hear staff calling out “Gorontalo?” to guide you toward the ticket counters. Tickets cost around 7 USD per person. The bus itself is old and hot and not the most comfortable ride, but it got us to Gorontalo in about 11 hours without any problems.
Where to Stay
As far as I’m concerned, the only place to stay in Gorontalo is Harry & Mimin Homestay. Harry and Mimin are a well-traveled, community-minded couple who provide tuition support to local children and offer valuable insight into Gorontalo’s culture. The homestay is clean, comfortable, close to the city center, and about a 10-minute drive from the ferry port. The hosts are warm and generous, even inviting us to share most meals with them and their family. Our room had a private bathroom and air-conditioning, and cost about 13 USD per night. The homestay was the highlight of our time in Gorontalo.
What to Do in Gorontalo
We didn’t do much in Gorontalo beyond relaxing at the homestay and taking short walks around the city. My husband visited a mosque built in 1495, and I spent time at Everyday Coffee, which serves ceremonial-grade matcha and a solid affogato. It was a good chance to rest and get some work done before heading to the Banggai Islands. Since Harry and Mimin had generously fed us so often, we returned the favor one evening and my husband led a casual “cooking class” to teach their family how to make Pakistani karahi. Earlier that day, we wandered through the central market and taught a few of the women at the vegetable stalls some words in my husband’s tribal language.
My Thoughts on Swimming with Whale Sharks
If you genuinely care about wildlife, you’ll skip swimming with whale sharks in Gorontalo. I know it’s enticing and there aren’t many places in the world where the opportunity is almost guaranteed. But that’s just the thing. Wildlife encounters shouldn’t be guaranteed, and when they are, it usually means animals are being lured in some way. Here, the whale sharks are fed by locals, which pulls them off their natural routes and creates dependence on humans. I understand that whale shark tourism brings income to the community, but the more ethical choice is to avoid it and just continue onward guilt-free.
Travel from Gorontalo to the Togian Islands
Most travelers use Gorontalo as a launch point to the Togian Islands. The overnight ferry is large and reliable, departing Gorontalo every even-numbered day in the late afternoon and arriving in Wakai before sunrise. Harry and Mimin can help you arrange tickets, and the latest schedule is posted on the ferry service’s Instagram: @ppg.gorontalo. If you don’t stay at Harry and Mimin Homestay, you can buy your tickets at the Gorontalo ferry port.
Travel from Gorontalo to Luwuk and the Banggai Islands
Luwuk is the gateway to the Banggai Islands. From the Gorontalo ferry port, buy a ticket to Pagimana for about 8 USD per person. It’s a slow overnight ferry with simple bunks, and the trip takes around 11 hours. In Pagimana, there are no public vans and very limited rideshares. The easiest option is to contact 88 Happy Homestay in Luwuk a few days ahead and ask if they can arrange a driver, which worked well for us. If you prefer to wing it, you can also hitchhike from Pagimana to Poh, then from Poh to Luwuk. Find the latest ferry schedule to Pagimana on Instagram: @ppg.gorontalo.
Check out my guide to Luwuk to find more information about the ferries from Luwuk to Banggai.
A Few Cultural Notes
A few hours north of Gorontalo in Kotamobagu, we stayed at a hotel that asked for our marriage certificate. Fortunately, we were able to able to dig ours up, but unmarried couples should be aware of this. The hotel lists “Syariah” in its name on Google, which means it follows shariah guidelines and does not accept unmarried couples.
Throughout the province, you could probably wear modest shorts or a tank top that covers your shoulders, but after talking with our hosts, I think full sleeves are the more respectful choice given how conservative the area can be. Overall, we had a great experience in Gorontalo and never felt unsafe, but understanding these nuances will ensure you have the best experience.
